More sewing! This is design #40 from the fall 2013 Ottobre Design magazine in a size 134. I think it could use another inch or so in the sleeves. It fits right now, but it would be better if it still fit come January. This is the picture I got when I asked Jack to just stand nicely.
The fabric is a sweatshirt knit that was used for a dye disaster, making it perfect for a tester. It is really soft, and Jack likes it, so we’re just going with it. :)
I was told this is his superhero pose. (Note, I did not ask for a superhero pose.)
I have no idea what is going on here. He’s 8.
Overall, he likes it. The pockets seem to want to keep turning out, so I may do something different there next time. Perhaps a kangaroo pocket on the front instead of the side seam pockets… I have some bamboo velour that I dyed some years ago that would look much better sewn up than it does on my shelf, so we’ll see what happens.
There has been quite a bit of sewing going on here, believe it or not!
This is a well-loved pattern around here. My notes on this one include that I added 3.25″ to it the last time I made the size 10. Without processing the date I wrote on there, I added the same this time in making them for Jack, who is 8. Or eight and a half, as he would probably say. Closer to eight and three quarters, really, but who’s counting?
Anyway, now that my brain has had time to actually think about the date, I realize that the last time I used this pattern, I was sewing for Jack’s older brother, who was 11 at the time. So, I guess I will hope that this kid likes robots for a couple more years, because these are definitely going to be too long. Ooops.
Maybe Jack will be so impressed with the really cool drawstring elastic waist that he won’t notice the fact that they are too long? Most likely he will notice, but won’t care because he is, after all, an 8 year old boy. And that’s okay. Plus, too long is much better than the too short pair he has been wearing from the pile of last year’s winter jammies.
After making this fantastic test version of hoodie pattern #9, I made a couple adjustments to the sleeves. Then I made it with a Polartec® Wind Pro® fleece. The fleece is a high loft/low velour face. I used the loft side as the inside, which is really soft. It makes up for the fact that this fabric fluffs all over the place when you cut it. The vacuum cleaner and some mailing tape were definitely good helpers for this one.
This is a size 38, with length and a little width added to the sleeves. The pattern is intended to be used with wool jersey, which I suspect might be thinner than the fleece I used. I wanted something warm for the ice rink. I tested it out at hockey practice last weekend and it was sooooo cozy with just a tank top layered underneath.
The embroidery is by Windbell Embroidery and is part of the gradient butterflies series. I didn’t do any thread color changes and used a variegated thread instead. This particular design is almost 5″x5″ and I probably should have used a smaller one. I used a tearaway stabilizer on the bottom and a water soluble on the top. This design stitched out really nicely.
The pattern calls for binding around the hood, which I ignored and instead folded under and coverstitched. I also evened out the front and back pieces so I didn’t put the vent flaps in the sides. I might leave it longer in the back next time. Not sure…
This issue looked good when the previews went up some weeks ago, but I am even more excited about it now that I have it in hand.
First, the wool coat. I think this could easily work with a good quality heavyweight fleece as well. Perhaps Polartec® WindPro or 300 weight fleece?
I am not sure if I am brave enough to tackle the button down shirt, but I do love the idea of it.
And this hoodie, I am thinking about skipping the pockets and making it waist length rather than tunic length. It looks like it would be super comfortable with jeans. But tunic length is really cute with the skirt it is pictured with, which I had not even noticed when I looked at the previews.
Then there is the diagonal zip front hoodie – LOVE THIS!!
The tee with scrunched up sides is a nice update to the basic t-shirt, and there is a tunic top with leggings that looks really comfortable for weekend wear.
There’s an a-line dress and also a more boxy dress made from either jersey or linen, as well as two more jackets, workout pants, a knife pleated skirt and peasant style top, a pair of jeggings and a pair of jeans in this issue. OH! And there is a body shaping full slip and a spaghetti strap tank top, too.
There are twenty patterns in this issue. TWENTY patterns. With the exception of the jeans, which come in sizes 34-46, all the patterns include sizes 34-52. If you aren’t a subscriber, you can buy single issues directly from Ottobre Design by visiting them here.
And no, this is not a paid post in any way, shape or form. I am just REALLY excited about this issue!! Hope you love it, too!
Happy Sewing! Can’t wait to see your creations on the Sewing Mamas Runway!
This tutorial was created by Barb, who is fw221 in the Sewing Mamas forums. Thanks Barb!
- 2/3 yard of 60″ wide fabric for exterior
2/3 yard of 60″ wide fabric for interior
1 yard of 44″ wide fabric for exterior
1 yard of 44″ wide fabric for interior
- Thread to match
If you want to use a lighter weight fabric, be sure to match it with a heavier weight. Two light weights won’t be substantial enough without interfacing. Two heavyweight fabrics will be tough on your machine (but not impossible).
Part One: Cut Your Fabric!
We’ll need from each fabric:
two cuts of 15″ (tall) x 18″ (wide)
one cut of 13″ (tall) x 15″ (wide)
one 3″ wide strip across the entire length of the fabric (we’ll cut this down later)
Part Two: Boxing
With the exterior fabric, take the two cuts of 15″x18″ and sew around three sides (15 – 18 – 15). Seam allowance should be 1/4″ to 3/8″, just be consistent. Be sure to secure the beginning and end by sewing back & forth a few times.
With the interior fabric, take the two cuts of 15″x18″ and sew around three sides (15 – 18 – 15) BUT leave a hole around 3″ wide in the middle of the 18″ length to turn the bag.
Press both pieces FLAT.
Pinch the corner and put seams together. Flatten out the corner on a grid and draw a diagonal line (My grid is 0.5″, so measure your diagonal at 2″ on each side).
Pin to keep in place, then take to sewing machine and sew along the line.
Cut excess off.
Do this for both corners on interior and exterior fabrics.
Press what seams you can.
This is what the corners will look like now:
Part 3: The Flap
Put interior & exterior fabrics right side together. Round off the bottom corners (flap will be 15″ wide by 13″ tall). I used a CD to round the corners, but a plate or glass will work too.
Sew around 3 sides and clip the corner.
Turn right side out and press!
Topstitch and then press again.
Part Four: The Strap
Place right sides together and sew up the long sides. Turn in your favorite fashion (I have a Turn-It-All set).
Press and topstitch.
Cut to desired length. I used 42″.
Part Five: Putting it all together
This will come as a great surprise… Press everything again!
Center the flap onto bag interior, like fabrics together and pin.
Center the strap ends to the seams, like fabrics together and pin.
Stick the exterior of the bag inside the interior, right sides together and pin.
Sew the whole thing shut.
Check the seam to make sure you sewed through all the layers. Then turn right side out through the hole you left in the bottom of the interior fabric.
Sew the bottom shut. I used my machine to sew right next to the seam, but hand stitching looks better.
Put the interior inside the exterior and press again
A HUGE THANK YOU to Barb for taking the time to put together this fabulous tutorial. Hope you have fun creating your own messenger bag!