I really like envelope necklines, it is pretty ideal for kids. No closure, easy pull over and the opening can stay decently high. How great is that?
First you need to get a pattern that you like the fit of already, with a typical set-in sleeve (or sleeveless) and shoulder seam. The shoulders MUST fit and not be too wide and falling off the shoulder. A little bit wide is ok but an envelope neckline could be disastrous on an oversized style shirt.
1) Mark any seam allowances on both front and back bodices. (Mine does not have SA at the neckline.)
2) The front bodice must be the opposite side as the back. So if the back bodice pattern piece is showing the left side, the front bodice must show the right. (I know this sounds confusing, but it will be apparent further along.)
Make a copy of the front bodice from the shoulder to under the armscye.
3) Fold back the shoulder seam allowance on the half front bodice pattern piece. Be as precise as possible.
4) Matching seamlines and any notches, tape the half front bodice to the back. Be accurate!
5) Redraw the front and back necklines in an almost 'S' shape. Mark where you want the back and front neckline at center front and center back. (I choose to keep the back neckline at the same level and lower the front neckline.) Note: my original pattern has a semi-boat neck. With a jewel neck, you will most likely be widening the neckline so it will look different than my example. An exaggerated 'S' shape might flip up at the bottom curve, so be aware of that.
The overlap point of the neckline is very important (where the lines of the X meet) so make sure it is where you want it to be on the bodice. It is typically down the front side a bit, but you could make it exactly at the shoulder seam line. It would look unusual though, just make sure it's where you want it.
6) Mark the shoulderline and where new pointy ends meet the armscye (making notches to match up the overlap to the sleeve).
7) Get your full front bodice pattern piece. Fold the center front of the half front bodice piece and pin over the full front bodice, precisely matching them up.
8) Trace the new front neckline on to the full front bodice piece. Trace the shoulder seam mark and the other notch at the armscye (where the back piece is to match up).
9) Erase the old neckline. If you need to add seam allowance do so.
10) Cut away the half front bodice from the back bodice at the new back neckline. If you need to add seam allowance, do that before cutting.
11) Now you are ready to test it out.
I can already tell the neckline is a bit too wide.
It's wearable but the neckline is not perfect.
12) Measure and decide on alterations. I wanted the front to come up at the overlap about 3/8" and the back needs to be 7/8" more at the overlap.
13) Tape the pattern pieces to new paper and redraw the necklines to the new specifications. Cut the new necklines but do not cut out the armscye area.
14) Accurately pin one bodice piece over the other, matching notches at armscye.
15) Trace the armscye area of the bodice to fill in the missing section of the other side. Mark your new notches (where the points will match up at the armscye) and erase the old notches. Repeat for the other side.
16) Cut out the altered pattern pieces. Once you are happy with the pattern (after making a muslin), trace on fresh paper to eliminate any old marks that will confuse you later.
17) Test your new pattern.
Better. I will probably tweak the pattern a bit more, adding more to the part of the back that overlaps to the front.
Notes on binding:
If using FOE, do not stretch it as much as you would on a round neckline. The envelope neck is a lot straighter than round and the FOE doesn't need to be stretched as much. I only stretch it a tiny bit to compensate for the slight elongation it gets from stitching. Test on scraps first.
If using any other finishing method, do not forget to add seam allowance as needed!
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Let me know if any steps are unclear. Thanks for reading, I hope this helps someone! Please post if you try this out.
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