Maddy's dress sew-a-long - in downloads

[mommytomaddyharley]

So this is the sew-a-long/instructions for the Maddy's dress pattern free here on SM in the downloads section. Away we go then.....

First, let's cut 2 equal rectangles out of fabric for the skirt portion of the dress. I used a 9"L x 22"W piece for the 12 month size and an 18"L x 22"W piece for the size 4. The wider your piece the fuller the skirt will be
Next, on one of the rectangles find the halfway mark across the width and cut 2.5" down. Like this!

Cut one rectangle that is 2.5"W x 5.5"L, set all your rectangles aside. Cut out all fo the bodice pieces using the pattern piees. Sleeves are optional.
Make sure to transfer marking from front bodice piece onto the two outer pieces of fabric. Two are lining, two are outer. I have a picture for that.

Now, cut out two pieces of heavy fusible interfacing (Size 12m=1"W x 6.25"L---Size 4=1"W x 8.5"L)
8. Fuse the interfacing onto the wrong sides of both bodice back pieces along the straight edge in between the edge and dotted line on the pattern piece (you may or may not have transfered thos markings) Clear as mud? I'll try to make it clearer with another picture.

At this time you can either serge down the back bodice piece flap or turn it in 1/8" and press it. Top and bottom of flap should be turned down/up 1/4" and pressed. Once you've serged or pressed the flap edge, fold it over and press again.

(Yes, I'm aware my interfacing is too short in this picture )
Now, place two bodice pieces right sides together (RST) and serge or sew down the long edge of the front bodice piece. Do this with the other two bodice pieces as well.

If you're doing the sleeveless version then you'll want to sew or serge the armholes at the same time that you're doing the long side.

Whatever you do DO NOT sew or serge together the top, the bottom and the small portions on the side below the armhole. Here, I'll make it simpler.

A picture is worth a thousand words right?
Now, line up the markings you transferred at the bottom of the front bodice pieces so that one side overlaps the other. Very close to the edge (like 1/8") stitch from mark to mark.

We'll move onto the back bodice pieces in the next post...

[mommytomaddyharley]

Okey doke. Now we're onto the back bodice pieces. You should have dealt with the flap of the back bodice piece in step 9, if you didn't go back and do so. If you did step 9, you're going to place back bodice piece and back bodice lining piece RST and sew (NOT SERGE!!!) the neckline from the flap to the shoulder. DO NOT sew the flap down.

I know I know, it's hard to see.

Is that any better? No? Sorry.
Once you've stitched the neckline, press the seam towards the back bodice lining piece.
Refer to the last picture again.
If you're doing the sleeveless version put pieces RST again and sew or serge the armhole like we did for the front pieces in step 10. If you're doing sleeves move onto step 15.
Fold back bodice lining down wrong sides together (WST) with the back bodice piece. Press the shoulder seam again. Then fold the flap towards the bodice lining and press again.

This is what you'll have.

Cheat sheet again, but ignore that top raw edge. You should've just done that. The shoulder should be raw, not the neckline.
Take the back bodice pieces now and mark the buttonhole/button placements (or you can mark the snap placements if you're going to do those). If you're looking at the back bodice pieces with the flap facing down, the right back bodice piece will be for your buttonholes and the left piece will be for your buttons. For both sizes mark 1/4" from the top on both pieces and 3/4" from the bottom on both pieces. For the 12 month size mark 1.5" from the top buttonhole mark and 1.5" from the bottom buttonhole mark. For the size 4, mark 2.25" from the top buttonhole mark and 2.25" from the bottom buttonhole mark.

Buttonholes

Button placement

and done
Please don't sew your buttons on until the end
Put your back bodice pieces RST with the front bodice pieces. Sew or serge them on one at a time. Fold them back and press the seam towards the back bodice.


Here's what it looks like when you've gotten them both attached.
Now, put a short (like 1/4" to 1/2" stitch on that back seam at the neckline side, not the shoulder side. Do this to both sides. Catch that seam allowance in your stitch.

Now we're going to attach the skirt...let's do that in the next post

[mommytomaddyharley]

You need to gather the front skirt portion to fit onto the front bodice. Sew or serge that gathered skirt panel to the front bodice pieces. Press seam. You may topstitch if you wish.

Those funky lines are my gathering threads. If you need help gathering check out the tutorial here on SM!
Now we're going to take the back panel and sew the small rectangle you cut out onto this piece. We'll call this rectangle "A". You should've cut a slit 2.5" down the center of your back skirt panel. If you didn't do that, do it. NOW
Press "A" in half lengthwise and press in all four edges using a VERY tiny seam allowance (like 1/8")

Now you're going to SEW "A" to the slit. Right side of "A" to right side of skirt panel.

We're upside down here, but get the point?
Fold "A" WST and sew along the slit again.

Now fold "A" in half upways and sew VERY close to the bottom edge.

and closer

wow, blurry. Sorry.
Now, gather each side of your back skirt panel. You'll be gathering two seperate pieces in essence. Gather it to fit each back bodice piece and then sew or serge the skirt panels onto coordinating bodice pieces.

See? Two seperate gathers.

Gather to fit.

Try to catch those flaps in there.

We should have something like this. You shouldn't have sewn the placket down.
So this is confusing, but you should have one part of the placket in with your back skirt. The other part should just be rocking out.

Hopefully this picture makes it clear.
Now, we're going to sew or serge the sleeves onto the bodice. Do both sleeves. If you're doing the sleeveless version, skip to step 28.

That's what you should have pre-sleeves.
Turn the sleeves up 1/2" and press then turn up again, press. Topstitch the sleeve hem. Do this to both sleeves.
If you lay your dress out you'll have kind of a plus sign.

Fold the dress RST and sew or serge up each side. One side then the other. Start at the bottom of the skirt and finish at the sleeve that way you can lock your serging in better. One side then the other. If you're doing the sleeveless version you'll just finish up at the armpit area.
Now turn your skirt hem 3/4" and press. Turn up again and press. Topstitch all the way around the skirt hem.
Now sew on your buttons, or place your snaps and voila! Maddy's dress!!!

[cute_button]

Wow just gorgeous!!!

[mslsews]

boy those are cute! Can't wait to try it out.

[tmhaire]

those are "sew" nice...thanks for the tutorial!

[grammieof4]

Can't wait to try this.

[camiles]

Those are too cute and so are the little ones. Will be trying this out when I get a little more experience at sewing.
Carol
Thanks for sharing.

[bnylund]

very cute!!!