Kori Skirt Sew Along *added to downloads*

[Kori]

Please understand, these are very amateur directions. I pretty much measured my favorite Urban Outfitters skirt, added seam allowances and figured how to make it...my way. You may know a better way to do it. Here goes.

The skirt in the photos was made for my 10 year old sister who is super tall and wears a size 12.

I'll add my measurements to the end for reference to those who may be a similar size to me. I didn't want her skirt as tight on her hips (since she's a preteen and thin) as I wanted mine. Her measurements are waist 25" and hips 30.5". Remember knits vary and the stretchier the knit the smaller you cut the width. I think this was a stretchy jersey with some lycra. If it was something like baby nay rib knit I would have taken at least an inch off the width of my cuts. For her size I cut the following pieces (width measurement is first) ~

Waist band - 24" X 12" (cut 1)
First Tier - 16" X 5" (cut 2)
Second Tier 24" X 9" (cut 2)
Third Tier 34" X 9" (cut 2)

Here's a pic of the 3 tiers, didn't take one of the waist band.



After cutting out all of the fabric I cut out the lastin I use to gather with. At this time you'll gather the bottom two tiers with whatever method you use so that they will be the same size as the bottom of the tier above them. Disregard the next bit if you don't use lastin.

I cut the lastin for each tier 1 inch shorter then the above tier I'm gathering it too. So for this skirt I cut two pieces of lastin at 15" each to gather the 2nd tier to attach to the first tier and two pieces at 23" each to gather the 3rd tier to attach to the second tier.

I then mark the lastin and the skirt piece in 4ths. Here's a photo of that:



Next I zig zag the lastin onto the edge of the skirt panel, stretching to meet the marks. It looks like this:



Here's what my lastin gathering looks like (after attaching it to the other panel, which we haven't done yet):



After gathering all 4 pieces of the bottom 2 tiers I'm ready to serge the side seams. I serge the side seams of the two bottom gathered tiers as well as the first tier which is not gathered. Serging side seams:



I then serge the waistband, right sides together. After serging it I try it on to make sure it fits. You will fold the waistband as that's how it will be worn. Make sure it's snug and remember that after the skirt is attached it will be heavier and could pull down. If it doesn't seam snug enough serge again taking off another 1" or whatever is necessary. This one was perfect:



Here's what all your tiers and waist band should look now:



Now it's time to attach the tiers. For the waistband I stretch and pin it in quarters attaching it to the first tier. You fold the waistband in half, wrong sides together, stretch and pin it in quarters attaching to the first tier and serge. It kind of reminds me of sewing a cuff onto a shirt. I hope that makes sense. There's only one seam in the waistband and I put it in the middle of the back. It doesn't look that perfect when finished but the waist band will be folded over that seam so it doesn't concern me. Here's how it looks serging it on:



Here's how it will look finished:



Now it's time to attach the bottom 2 tiers, matching side seams. I pin at the side seams and then in the middle as shown:



When serging with lastin gathers this is the amount I cut of and where the needles are. I let some of the lastin remain as I've found if I try to cut it all off my gathers flatten and stretch out. Serging tiers to each other:



After the waistband and all tiers are attached you are almost done. I do a light rolled hem on mine with the plan that the hem will roll up. You can do whatever kind of hem you prefer. My hem:



That's it! It's much easier then I'm I've made it with all these instructions. LOL You'll need to figure out your own measurements. Let me know if you need help based on your measurements and how long you want it.

The waistband folds down when worn. Here are some finished photos:






For more reference I wear a 10/12 and my measurements are waist 30", hips 40". I wear the skirt a little lower then my natural waist (a couple inches wider) and here are the pieces I cut:

waistband - 30" X 13" (cut 1)
1st tier - 20.5" X 6" (cut 2)
2nd tier - 31" X 10" (cut 2)
3rd tier - 43" X10" (cut 2)

The finished length of my skirt with the waist band folded is 25".

Here are a couple of my skirts:





PLEASE let me know if something doesn't make sense to you or if you have any questions. I found that a couple things (like the waistband) were very hard for me to explain. Have fun, can't wait to see those sew & shows!