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    How to draft a puffed sleeve

    This tutorial shows you how to draft a puffed sleeve from a regular sleeve pattern. This is an easy way to make a regular t-shirt more girly. Pattern shown is the girl's t-shirt pattern from Ottobre Magazine issue 4/2004 #36. The pink shirt is a finished example of this pattern with a puffed sleeve.


    Step 1: Trace your sleeve pattern onto paper. I have a huge roll of craft paper that I like to use for this, and I prefer that over my usual pattern ease.



    Step 2: Fold pattern in half, matching ends. Cut sleeve pattern down the middle. I have a rotary blade that I use just for patterns.



    Step 3: Finish cutting pattern into 8 equal pieces. You can either do the math to determine the width of each piece, or you can continue folding each piece in half until you have 8 equal pieces.



    Step 4: This is very important. Number each piece from 1-8. I don't bother with cutting out each piece because that doesn't matter.



    Step 5: On a large piece of paper, draw a straight line down the middle.



    Step 6: Place piece 4 against the straight line.



    Step 7: Line up your ruler 1/2" away from the top and 3/4" away from the bottom of pattern piece #4. Draw a straight line.





    Step 8: Line up your pattern piece against the straight line, and glue or tape it to the paper.



    Step 9: Continue to draw straight lines and match pattern pieces until all 8 are taped or glued.



    Step 10: Draw new sleeve pattern. Even out the edges as needed.



    Step 11: Fold pattern in half matching ends. The fold line will be your fold line and new grainline.



    Step 12: Cut out pattern on the fold. If you want, you can retrace your pattern onto new paper. Make sure to label it. (not shown) I do not add seam allowances to the top or sides of this pattern. I do add a little extra length because I like a longer ruffle. I only use a 1/4" seam allowance on this pattern. It is probably a good idea to add a seam allowance to the top of your pattern.



    To use this pattern (not shown):
    I always make my puffed sleeve hems with rolled edges and shirred sleeves like this. You may also make an elastic casing, but you will need to gather up the excess fabric some way.

    For the top of the sleeve, I mark gathering lines at the top of the pattern (usually around pieces 3 and 6). To make sure that the sleeves are even, I mark them when the fabric is on the fold. Make gathering lines on the sleeve top between your marked spots, and gently pull the threads to match the sleeve with the bodice. See the easy playdress tutorial for help with gathering lines.
    Last edited by sewingmel; 03-01-2012 at 01:40 PM.
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