Bustle bum Olivia dress - in DL

[idnaoj80]

This is how I used my Farbenmix Olivia pttern to create a bustle bum similar to the Chasing Fireflies dress.

*Note: Hems are unfinished for this dress.*

1. We need to alter the olivia pattern. Take your back piece and mark the center fold where is hits just above the childs bum (where is starts to curve out for the skirt of the dress) Now mark 1-2" down on the seam allowance side. Connect the two marks with a gradual curve.




2. Cut out all pieces. For the back just do the upper part. (dont forget to add SA to the bottom of the back to connect the bustle.)

3. Creating the pattern pieces for layers 1, 3, 5.

*5 is already done, just use the piece cut from the back.
*For 1 and 3
~grab piece 5 and mark on the SA 4 notches evenly spaced.


~Trace the top and sides on the the pattern piece stopping at the first notch.

~Now bring up the bottom hem of pc 5 to match the notch to make the curve of the bottom piece.

~Repeat for piece 3 using the third notch.

4. Creating the pattern pieces for layers 2 and 4. We dont want a lot of bulk so this is similar but we chop the top off
*Trace the pc 5 as for layers 1 and 3 then about 2-3" from the top draw a line and cut. (no need to be precise, just make sure its hidden under the layer above it.)



5. Creating the Chiffon layers.
*Using the layering patterrn pieces 1, 2, 3, 4.
~Move the piece away from the fold as far away as you want really, I did roughly 2" and wish I did more for a fuller look.
~Add about and inch to the bottom as well


6. Cut out all those pieces we just made patterns for (dont forget SA at sides and top)


7. Gather Chiffon

8. Sew chiffon to its corresponding layer.

9. Pin and Sew layer 4 onto 5. Starting at the side SA up around the top of layer 5 and down the other side.


10. Pin and Sew layer 2 onto 3. same as above.


11. Pin and Sew All layers together. Same as above.


12. Sew upper back to bustle.


13. Iron up and topstitch if desired.


14. Sew up Olivia as instructed.

Finished pic coming soon