Flatlocking serged seams - in downloads

There are a few ways to flatlock using a serger. I wasn't thrilled with how my garment that was just flatlocked looked so I experimented with serging the seams first. Here is how I did it. I am using the TDK undies pattern for this tutorial, but you can use this technique on many different items.

Option 1: When I checked some ready-to-wear that we had, this is how ALL of the pieces were flatlocked. It does not make the seam totally flat on the inside, but it gives you a great decorative stitch. This way works a little more like topstitching than making a seamless feel on the wrong side.

Step 1: Serge your seams like usual (right sides together).

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s.../sg-owl012.jpg

Step 2: Iron serged seams flat.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s.../sg-owl014.jpg

Step 3: Set your machine for flatlock according to your machine's manual. I have a Husky 936. Make sure you make other adjustments to your machine as needed. You may need to change your foot, cover or lower your blade, and/or make other adjustments.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s.../sg-owl007.jpg

Step 4: Fold fabric to be flatlocked along seam line with wrong sides together.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s.../sg-owl016.jpg

Step 5: Flatlock seam.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s.../sg-owl019.jpg

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s.../sg-owl021.jpg

Step 6: Open flatlocked seam flat.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s.../sg-owl022.jpg

Backside-
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s.../sg-owl025.jpg

Finished
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s.../sg-owl068.jpg

Option 2: I wanted something that was smooth on the underside despite being serged first. I experimented with another technique.

Follow steps 1-3 in Option 1.

Step 4: Fold fabric over serged seam with wrong sides together. Keep fabric tight against serged seam.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s.../sg-owl026.jpg

Step 5: Flatlock seam.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s.../sg-owl029.jpg

Step 6: Open flatlocked seam flat.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s.../sg-owl033.jpg

Backside
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s.../sg-owl036.jpg

Side by side:
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s.../sg-owl042.jpg

Option 2 works great for the inner seams of the undies, but the seam popped when I tried to flatlock the leg opening. I would suggest going with option 1 for any bindings (shown on leg openings). I am not sure how the waist will hold up to washings.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s.../sg-owl063.jpg

what serger is that you have fancy nancy?? :)

Step 3: Set your machine for flatlock according to your machine's manual. I have a Husky 936. Make sure you make other adjustments to your machine as needed. You may need to change your foot, cover or lower your blade, and/or make other adjustments.



It's a Husky 936

mel, THANK YOU!!!!

Thanks Mel for doing all this flatlocking work for us! I will try it when I feel better!

Thanks so much for this tute mel! Flatlocking is something I've definitely wanted to work on learning!

Thanks so much! This is perfect and looks mire durable then a normal flatlocking technique.

Wow, thanks for doing this! It really makes sense to me now. Now I need to make something to try this out.

Great tutorial!! Thanks!

Awesome tutorial!!! I totally need to try this. Thanks so much! :heart:

Thank you so much for posting this :) I want to try it on some fall/winter sewing this year!

Update:
Option 1 worked really well. The nightgown and undies I made with that method are still going strong, and the stitching looks great!
Option 2 was a complete failure. It held up for a few washes, but it popped after that.

Thanks for that update!

Thanks for updating Mel.