Inserting a lapped zipper

Inserting a lapped or covered zipper

Insert a lapped or covered zippered into a garment or I used this method to insert a lapped zipped into a box cushion.
Step 1) Sew the typical garment seam allowance of 5/8 of an inch from the bottom of the garment up towards the top until you get to the where the bottom of the zipper stop will be. Remember to back tac here. The yellow pin is where you will stop sewing to insert the zipper. (the blue painters tape is how I mark 5/8 inch seam allowance on my machine to help keep my seams straight)
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Step 2) Press the seam allowance open and continue to press the 5/8 inch seam allowance all the way to the top of the garment on both sides.
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Step 3) Using the pressed seam allowance farther from you press under ¼ inch.
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Step 4) Flip over the garment so right side is up and lay the zipper under the newly pressed ¼ inch seam allowance. Making sure the zipper stop lays right under where you stopped sewing the original seam allowance.
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Step 5) I like to use the washable purple glue stick to “baste” the zipper into place. You can also pin and hand baste or machine baste if you prefer.
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Step 6) Using a narrow zipper foot start from the bottom of the zipper and sew close to the teeth following the pressed edge. When you get close to the zipper pull, leave the needle in the fabric and lift the presser foot to it’s highest position so you can unzip the zipper just beyond the presser foot to continue sewing to the top.
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Step 7) Now when you lay the other side over the zipper the seam allowance is bigger so it covers the zipper nicely and lays flat.
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Step 8) Glue baste or pin and hand baste the seam allowance or flap over the zipper. Place some cellophane tape right alongside the zipper teeth you can see the glare of the tape in the picture to use as your guide for your narrow zipper foot.
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Step 9) Sew this side of the zipper into place starting at the top this time. When you get a little bit beyond the zipper stop leave your needle in the fabric, lift the presser foot and pivot to sew across the bottom of the zipper. Tie off or backtack.
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Congratulations on inserting a lapped zipper. Great for a skirt or pants or home dec projects.

Inserting a lapped zipper - in downloads