lined jacket with separating zipper tutorial -dwnl

:hithere:

Firstly, my iron died today so ignore all unpressed seams.Here we go, I am doing a lined jacket but its the same thing for reversible just very minor changes. So my "lining" can also be known as reversible if you are making a reversible jacket. this pattern is from BWOF 9/2002 but it works with any jacket pattern. for knit fabric, you might want to interface the zipper area. I made a reversible knit jacket from otto 6/2009 before, same concept just in knit.

**iron where it seems appropriate, seams, hems, etc, No ironing here b/c my iron died.

First, for outer shell, sew shoulder seams, sleeves and side seams, topstitch necessary seams. Do the same for lining pieces. then put together, right side together.

Next we are going to insert the separating zipper. Take your outer shell, right side up, place the zipper right side down (you can see the zipper head position). The straight part of the zipper should align with the shell outer edges. The marking is where the bottom part of the zipper should be. you can baste this if you wish.
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...g?t=1272911937

**my liner fabric, batik side is right side,black is wrong side. my outer fabric has no right side/wrong side but the side with the trim is the right side.
now lay the right side of the inner fabric onto the zipper.
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...g?t=1272912073

the zipper teeth should be pointed away from the edges, pin and sew. when you are done, you will have something like this. do the same for the other side of the zipper. but dont turn the jacket inside out just yet.
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...g?t=1272912300

next take the sleeve edge, fold it towards the wrong side. the wrong side here is against my fingers.
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...g?t=1272912374

now join the lining sleeve edges with the outer shell sleeve edges. It doesnt matter how deep the fold it, but I find the deeper the fold, the easier to sew the sleeve edges, stitch all around. since mine is lined, the lining sleeve edges is cut 1cm shorter than the shell, for reversible, they are off the same length.
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...g?t=1272912638

this pic shows better how they are supposed to be joined.
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...g?t=1272912821

for a lined jacket, this is the end product.
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...g?t=1272913465

for a reversible jacket, it will be of the same length.

do the same for the other sleeve.

now for the hood, sew the hood pieces together, then put the lining + outer shell hood right side together, stitch just around the hood's front edges, turned it inside out, then topstitched.

this looks pretty confusing, but I still have not turned the jacket inside out.
the piece where there is a pin is the outer shell.
the piece sandwiched between it and the lining is the hood. place the hood with the outer hood shell matching the outer shell part of the jacket and automatically the lining hood will be against the lining part of the jacket, does that make sense?
**the zipper I use is longer than the pattern calls b/c its the only zipper in that colour that i can find hence the zipper length, but this is all on the inside so no worries about it.
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...g?t=1272912840

Match all seams and with the hood sandwiched between the lining and the outer shell, pin everything and sew it up.
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...g?t=1272913204

before sewing it up, make sure the zipper pull is inside all the sandwiched pieces since i am going to snip the extra zipper pieces and it will really suck if i lose the zipper pull. :wink:
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...g?t=1272913332

After this point, you can turn the jacket inside out to check that all placements are correct and that the top part of the zipper matches. if everything seems ok, now pull both hems (lining + outer shell), enclosing the sleeves, body and hood on the inside. when you pull it up, you will form a boat-like structure.
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...g?t=1272913523

now match all the seams, pin appropriately and sew it all along the hem, leaving a small area for turning.
** its best for this area to be somewhere at the back. My jacket has a slight curve (from pattern) on the front so it would totally be a pita to leave the turning area at the front.
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...g?t=1272913575

turn it inside out, topstitch the hem & zipper area and done! :fainter: :yes:
**though mine is not topstitched yet, not till i get my iron.
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...g?t=1272913743

inside out
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...g?t=1272913917

my zipper isnt for reversible so this is a lined jacket.

sorry if it seems long, let me know of any questions! I am sure I made a lot of "explanation mistakes", I am rushing through naptime :D

thanks!