Grading a pattern for multiple sizes

The best part of sewing for myself is that I can make clothes that fit me! I have never been a one-size-fits-all kind of gal so I pretty much grade all of my patterns. Usually, my waist and hips are about 1-3 sizes apart. If rtw clothes don't fit you without alterations, then you might need to grade sizes on patterns, too. Pattern shown is the Ottobre 5/2009 Hipster panties.

Step 1: Measure yourself carefully and honestly to find out what size you need. (not shown)

Step 2: Trace the smallest size needed in one color, and trace the largest size in another color. I always use different colors so I can keep the sizes straight. The game tokens are just there as pattern weights.
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...torials074.jpg

Step 3: Draw a line to merge the two sizes (new line). Don't worry if the line looks like it will be crooked on you. It will actually appear straight/vertical.

Add seam allowance (new seam allowance) to the new line.
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...torials076.jpg

Step 4: Cut out pattern piece. For this pattern, I kept the waist cutting line, but everything at the bottom of the pattern has the hip cutting line.

**When you cut your crotch gusset piece, you will need to trace the hip size for that piece.
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...torials078.jpg

Step 5: Now, you need to make sure that the front and back pieces will match. Line up your front piece against your back piece. Remember that the front piece has seam allowance already. I lined up the actual side blue line to actual side blue line, but I traced the side with seam allowance.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...torials079.jpg

I then added a seam allowance when the patterns met at the hip line.
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...torials081.jpg

Finished back pattern
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...cs/tut2002.jpg

Just remember that you will need to adjust every pattern piece that is related to your adjustments. If you alter the shoulder or side seam of a dress, you will need to alter the sleeve.